Thursday, June 25, 2020

DIY Sandbox with lid seats

The girls have been asking for a sandbox for a while now and I finally built one for them!
Here's a step by step tutorial so you can make one too!

We had this unused space under our deck stairs that I thought would be perfect for a sandbox! Nice and shaded and kind of unusable unless you're sitting down. Perfect. I made my box the perfect size for this space. You can definitely edit this tutorial to any size you would like with a little math. 

Kreg pocket hole jig
Painting or staining Supplies

4- 1x10x8 boards
20- 1x3x8 boards
2- 2x4's 
3 packs of 1 1/4 exterior screws
1 inch Kreg screws
4 Corner supports
8 Hinges
4 gate handles

This will vary depending on the size, but all in this cost a little under $200


Create a box- Use pocket holes on the ends of the short sides of the box.


Cut 3 boards to the length of your box (mine was 64'') and attach them screws spacing them 1/2 apart.


Cut 3 2x4' pieces to 8 1/2 inches long and attach it to 3 more boards spaced 1/2 inch apart. I attached them from the bottom side of the graphic. Do this two times. Makes sure the 2x4's are at least 1 inch from the outer edges so they can sit inside the box.


Set the seats you created on to the box with the 2x4's hanging down into the box - keep the 1/2 inch spacing. Then use hinges to attach the screwed on 1x3 board to the seat pieces as shown above. 


 Cut 4 pieces of 2x4's to 22 inches long. 
Create the back of the seat by laying 4 1x3's 1/2 inch apart and then screwing 2 of the 22inch 2x4 pieces to the back placed about 4inchs in from the ends. Create 2 of these. 


Lay the seat backs you created onto the box with the 2x4's laying on top of the box. Add hinges to the underside between the seat piece and the seat back (two on each side).

Add Gate handles to the top of the 2x4's if you'd like!

I prepped the area by laying two layers of weed barrier down before putting the sandbox down. 

 TA DA!! 
I love the way it turned out!! Last minute I got a peg board and staked it into the ground beside it to hold their digging tools and I think its the cutest addition.

This sandbox is so functional and beautiful! If you make one please send me pictures or tag me on social media!!

Sunday, May 31, 2020

Home Office -Chosing a light fixture

If you follow me over on INSTAGRAM, you've seen were creating a home office! I just finished building the built-ins (I'm obsessed with how they turned out). Post coming on those soon!
We have a beautiful light fixture in the room now, but it is too large and covers up the beautiful builtins. 

Obviously, it still needs to be painted.

I really want to do something brass because it will look so beautiful against the dark blue walls, and something not too bulky so that you can see the builtins behind it.
Here are the options I've been choosing between!
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8

I've narrowed it down to 2 , 6 and 8 as my favorites. Which would you choose??

Tuesday, May 5, 2020

DIY Built-In Laundry Bin Tower

Ever since we moved into this house I've wanted a laundry bin tower in our small laundry room. I knew it would maximize the small space and look beautiful! One day I decided to just go for it and build it myself! It was much easier than I was expecting!! It only took a day to get it done! I LOVE the way it looks and it is SO functional! Our Laundry Room magically feels larger!

Miter saw
Nail Gun
Countersink Drill Bit
Kreg Jig 
Corner Clamp
Sand Paper
Caulk Gun

4- 2x4's
Paint, brushes, etc. 

Does not include cost of tools

  Make a Base out of 2x4's :  Cut 3 pieces to 19 3/4 inches and 2 pieces to 30 3/4 inches. Create pocket holes in the 3 shorter pieces and attach them to the longer piece (starting with creating the box and adding the middle piece after). Attach using wood glue and kreg screws.

Make a platform to the base using 2x4's : Cut 5 pieces to 30 3/4 inches. Attach the pieces on top of the base by creating pilot holes with the countersink drill bit and using 2 1/2 inch screws. 

 STEP 3:
 Make the frame of the Tower using 3/4 inch plywood: I had home depot cut the plywood sheets to size for me or you can use a table saw. The side pieces are 87'' tall by 22'' wide and our ceiling is 8 ft. tall. You will need to add inches for a taller ceiling. The top and bottom pieces are 30'' by 22''.

Creat 5 pocket holes on the top and bottom of the side pieces (so 20 total). Use wood glue and a corner clamp to create a perfect 90-degree angle between a side piece and top/bottom piece. While the clamp is in place add Kreg screws to the pocket holes.
 STEP 4:
 Add supports to the tower. Use the scrap pieces of plywood to cut 2 6''x 28 1/2'' pieces and 4 3''x28 1/2'' pieces. Add pocket holes to the ends of the 3'' pieces and the ends and one side of the 6'' pieces.

Using wood glue and Kreg screws for the pocket holes attach the 6'' pieces to the top and bottom of the frame. Make sure the pieces are inset and flush with the sides/top and bottom.

Attach the 3'' pieces using the same technique. Space the piece by measuring 18'' from the bottom to the top of 3'' pieces like in the photo. these pieces will support the shelves so the spacing is important.

 STEP 5:
Add a back to the cabinet using 1/4 inch plywood. Use a piece 30'' by 87'' and nail it to the back of the cabinet using brad nails.

Attach the frame to the base and wall studs, in the corners, using the drill, countersink bit and 2 1/2'' screws.

 Add 4 pocket holes to the sides of the Shelf pieces of 1/2 inch plywood 28 1/2'' x 22''. Set the shelf on top of the pack support piece, level the shelf, and attach the shelf to the sides of the tower using Kreg screws through the pocket holes on the underside.

 STEP 8:
 Add the Trim. Cut 1x2's into two pieces 88 1/2'' long. Attach them to the front frame using brad nails.

STEP 9: 
Cut 2 1x2's to 27 3/4'' and attach them to the top and bottom of the frame using brad nails.

 STEP 10:
 Cut 2 1x2's to 88 1/2'' and attach them to the side using brad nails.

STEP 11:
 Cut 2 1x2's to 19 1/4'' and attach to the top and bottom of the side using brad nails.

STEP 12:
 Wrap the bottom of the tower with baseboards.

STEP 13:
 Wrap the top of the tower with baseboard.

STEP 14:
Add trim to the shelf fronts using 1x2's cut to 27 3/4'' and attach using brad nails. Make top of the trim piece flush with the shelf.

 STEP 15: 
Paint, fill holes with spackle, sand and paint!

TA DA!!!!!

THESE are the baskets I use that fit perfectly on the shelves!

Monday, April 27, 2020

Build Your Own Crib Mattress Porch Swing!

I've always wanted a porch swing! So I decided to build my own! And build it to fit my daughter's old crib mattress that I had sitting in the basement! I used Plank and Pillows tutorial for inspiration and edited it for the things I wanted! This is a Simple Tutorial especially if you opt-out of the x design on the sides. I would rate this a SKILL LEVEL TWO on the 1 to 5 skill scale. 

Outdoor Wood Glue
Kreg Jig (optional) and clamp

2 3/8 Eye Screws 
3/4 inch Rope length 4 times floor to ceiling height
Crib Mattress 

This does not include tools costs

Let's Do It!


Use 1x4's to create a frame. Cut 2 pieces to 26 1/2 inches and 2 pieces to 52 inches. Place the shorter pieces inside the longer pieces to create the box. I used two pocket holes with screws and wood glue on both ends of the shorter pieces to create a very strong base. If you don't have a kreg jig. wood glue and finish nails are ok!


Use 1x2's to create supports. Cut 2 pieces to 26 1/2 inches. Use wood glue and brad nails to attach the pieces inside of the frame with 3/4 of an inch gap to the top of the outside frame pieces.


Use a 1x3 to create central support. Cut a 1x3 to 26 1/2 inches and attached to the center of the frame using wood glue and brad nails leaving a 3/4 inch gap from the top of the board to the top of the frame. 


Use 1x6's to create a base. Cut 4 1x6's to 50 1/2 inches and attach them to the frame using wood glue and brad nails. Space the boards evenly apart with the first and last boards flush to the frame.


Use 1x3's to create L shaped front posts. DO NOT attach them to the frame yet. Cut 4 pieces to 20 inches. Make two L shaped posts by using wood glue to attach the edge of one to the back of the other (x2). Let them sit and dry for a few minutes. 

Once the L shaped posts have dried, attach them to the front corners of the frame using glue and brad nails. Place the shorter side of the L's along the front and the longer sides along the side of the frame.  


Use 1x3's to create L shaped back posts. Exactly the same as the last step but cut 4 pieces to 26 inches.  Create the L shaped posts first with wood glue and then attach them to the back corners with wood glue and brad nails. The short side of the L along the back and long side along the side of the frame.


Use 1x3's to create the sides of the swing. Cut two pieces to 28 inches, attach them to the inside of the front (20 inch) posts using wood glue and brad nails. Use a level to level the piece and then attach the other end to the inside of the back post (26 inch) using wood glue and brad nails. Repeat on the other side.


Use 1x3 to create the back. Cut one piece to 52 inches and attach to the inside of the back posts using wood glue and brad nails.


Use 1x3's to make an X design on the sides. This is THE hardest step. (If you don't feel like tackling the angles you can take one or two pieces and make slats instead.) The X's are made from 3 pieces. The ends of the X's are cut at a 60-degree angles. The first piece has alternating 60-degree angles on both ends and from the short of one angle to the long of the other measures 27 inches. I had to create a jig to get a 60-degree angle with my miter saw (you can watch this video to learn how.).  

The next two pieces have a 60-degree angle on one end and a 30-degree angle on the other with the board measuring 13 1/2 inches from long tip to short tip. Attach the long piece first with wood glue and brand nails and then the shorter two on either side. 

STEP 10:

Use 1x3's and 1x4's to create the back slats. Cut 3 pieces of 1x3 to 52'' and 1 to 50 1/2 inches. Cut 1 piece of 1x4 to 52 inches. Attach the 1x3 pieces to the inside of the back L posts using wood glue and brad nails 1 1/8 inches apart from each other. The 50 1/2 inch 1x3 will be attached where the side arms hit the back posts.

The 1x4 piece is attached at the bottom as low as it will sit before hitting the cross pieces.

STEP 11:

Create a back support piece using 1x3's.  Cut one piece to 26 inches and attach it to the back slats using wood glue and brad nails.

STEP 12:

Creat armrests using 1x3's. Cut 2 pieces 26 1/4 inches long and attach them along the top of the sides using wood glue and brad nails.

STEP 13:

Add trim pieces with 1x3's. Cut two pieces to 5 1/4 inches and attach them to the face of the back trim using wood glue and brad nails.

STEP 14:

Add top finish pieces using 1x3's.  Cut two pieces to 4 inches and attach them to the top of the posts using wood glue and brad nails.


Add finish pieces using 1x2's. Cut one piece to 58 1/16 inches. Us your measuring tape to check your space before cutting. Attach with wood glue and brad nails.

STEP 16:

Create finish trim using 1x2's.  Cut 2 pieces to 23 inches and 2 pieces to 48 1/2 inches. Attach them to the base front and sides using wood glue and brad nails.

STEP 17:

Add Trim pieces to the back using 1x2's. Based on how you centered the back support the measurements will change. So, measure the distance between the supports and posts, cut 2 pieces, and attach with wood glue and brad nails.

STEP 18:

Add 2x3 Studs for hanging supports. Cut 2 pieces to 59 1/2 inches. Attach them to the bottom of the front and back of the base using wood glue and 3-inch screws. Drill pilot screws using a countersink bit before screwing in the 3-inch screws.

STEP 19:

 Add holes to the studs for hanging. Using a 3/4 inch drill bit to drill 4 holes in the center of the overhanging stud ends.

STEP 20:

If you're painting your swing I recommend the extreme bond primer first from Sherwin Williams. And then follow with two coats of their Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel.

If you're staining I would recommend a good outdoor wood stain like this one.

STEP 21:

We set the porch swing on two upside-down 5-gallon buckets (It's the perfect height!). The trickiest part of hanging the swing is finding the support studs in the ceiling, especially if you have metal ceilings like us. We pushed around on the ceilings and you could easily feel the studs.

Once you find it, use the 1/4 inch drill bit and make a pilot hole into the center of the stud. Make sure wood shavings come out when you drill. Then screw in the eye screws into the pilot holes- use a long screwdriver through the hole and turn it until tight. We recommend you reinforce the stud beams to be safe!

Then run the rope through the eye screw and down through the hanging holes on the side of the swing. Tie knots in the rope right beneath the stud/hole.

And TA-DA!!! A Beautiful, functional and fun porch swing!!

Please tag me on Instagram @huntersofhappiness if you complete it!! And follow me there to see how I decorate this beauty!!